AAPC03   Mount Huascaran (6768m/22199ft)        9D/8N


Located in the famous Cordillera Blanca, Huascaran is the highest mountain in Peru. It offers a challenging ascent requiring intermediate level alpine skills. This is a good choice for climbers who want to experience a great high altitude climb.

For experienced climbers only!

Day 1: Huaraz – Musho - Base Camp (4200m/13776ft).

From Huaraz we will drive for about 1 hour to the village of Musho (3050m/10004ft) and then to the Huascaran Park boundaries. From here and with the help of mules and donkeys to carry the loads, we begin our hike up to Huascaran Base camp. (LB, D).

Day 2: Base Camp – Huascaran Refuge (4700m/15416ft).

Today, with the help of porters we move up to the hut of Huascaran. The day starts with a rock scramble section to continue afterwards on granodiorite slabs of the mountains until we reach the hut. (B, LB, D).

Day 3: Huascaran Refuge – Camp I (5500m/18040ft) - Refuge.

Today with the help of our high altitude porters, we will setup our altitude camp I already on the glacier. The first part of the climb will go along granite terrain and then onto the glacier slopes for about 3 hours until we will reach our campsite. Those participants, who desire, can help us to carry the equipment and so enjoy a further acclimatization. Others can stay in the refuge and just relax in the day. From camp I we are able to observe the route that goes up to Camp II. Return to the refuge. (B, LB, D).

Day 4: Huascaran Refuge - Camp I.

After enjoying a hearty breakfast and relaxing at the refuge, at about 10-11 a.m. we will star our slow gentle move-up to the camp I. In the afternoon and if weather permits we will enjoy the spectacular sunset. (B, LB, D).

Day 5: Camp I – Camp II (5970m/19582ft).

This part of the climb is considered the most difficult and the most dangerous so we will start early in the morning in order to arrive at the base of the "Trapecio", a giant ice wall that descend from the South Summit. From here we will climb through seracs and cross several crevasses to finally make a traverse towards the Garganta (means throat) until we reach our camp place at the coll between the North and the South Summit of the giant Huascaran. (B, LB, D).

Day 6: Camp II – South Summit (6768m/22200ft) – Camp II.

The day starts at about 3 a.m. Our climb will begin at the base of the north side of the south summit of Mount Huascaran and then climb up directly to the summit. Snow conditions vary from season to season so we will look for the best route until we reach the ample plateau of the summit. Weather permitting we will enjoy amazing views of the Cordillera Blanca high peaks: Huandoy, Chacraraju, Alpamayo, Chopicalqui, Pisco, etc. etc. Return to our camp II where we will celebrate with a hearty dinner. (B, LB, D).

Day 7: Extra day for summit attempt. B, LB, D.

Day 8: Camp II – Camp I (or refuge).

Early in the morning, we will start our descent towards the camp I or if we feel strong enough straight to the Refuge. (B, LB, D).

Day 9: Camp I (or Refuge) – Camp Base – Musho – Huaraz.

Descend to base camp and from there hike back to Musho from where our transport will take us back to the city of Huaraz. B, LB.

 Gross Rates per Person in US$:

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We provide: Private transport (from/to Huaraz), all entrance fees, professional mountain guide, noted meals, complete camping equipment, communal climbing gear, complete food services while on the mountain, cook, helpers, mule keepers, mules (horses) for cargo transportation, extra horse for emergency, first aid kit, porters.

Not included: International and domestic flights, airport taxes, personal climbing gear, extras and tips, personal travel insurance.

Grading:  moderate – hard – very hard

• Climbing Ratio: 3 clients / 1 guide





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